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The
Runways of Spring
About this time each year,
the big-name designers (and the big-name wannabe designers)
trot out their latest creations to shape the face of Spring
and Summer fashion. Some things never change -- the
models are all thinner than can be imagined, the music is
loud, the atmosphere of the shows is electric, and the garments
modeled will have some impact on what is available in stores
in a few months.
Is
this stuff for real?
Does anybody really wear this
stuff they model? Well, a few people do (mostly celebrities
wanting to make a splash) but the real influence of the
garments is more subtle. While
you may not see the exact outfit that strolled down the
runways on hangers at a retailer near you, details and impressions
of it will echo throughout "real" fashion design.
Many of the garments designed are actually rather flimsy,
and not at all practical for every-day use -- which is why
most of us buy clothes. What the designer is really
trying to do is set a tone through color, fabric, and overall
theme that is carried out in the details of each garment.
What's
New this Spring and Summer?
If you want to get
a look at what designers offered in their Spring and Summer
collections, check
out this site -- it offers photos from over 80
different designers! The photos used
on this page were culled from the photos of various designers'
collections.
The buzz words of the runway
this year seem to be "more" and "less". More skin,
more sheerness, more openings. Less cloth, shorter
pants, lower backs, less concealment. Don't
panic -- if that's not your style, the pendulum is bound
to swing back the other way eventually.
Look for bare midriffs, shirts
that look more like brassieres than outer garments, and
even the shirt-less look -- a jacket over... well, nothing
-- both for men and women (though obviously, for men it's
not as risky or risque.)
Many garments in the shows have a distinctly lingerie look
(they call it "lingerie-infused" style).
Highlights
of the Shows
Despite the fact that people
long for bright colors in spring, the looks were surprisingly
muted. Lots of black,
white, warm browns, cream and beige -- with splashes of
brighter colors for an accent.
Some outfits included mixtures
of prints that we might not usually think actually go together
-- florals and stripes, plaids and abstracts.
Colors also did not necessarily go together. Don't
use this as an excuse for bad mixing-and-matching, though.
Several
designers went with a Navy or nautical theme for some of
their creations, so watch for those kinds of details popping
up on blouses, jackets, sweaters and accessories.
Navy blue and white stripes, red and white stripes, blocks
of color reminiscent of Navy uniforms with their big collars
-- these looks are cute, and will only last for a season
or so. Enjoy them, but consider them a frivolity,
not a permanent part of your wardrobe.
Once
again, designers are playing with contrasting types of fabrics
and textures. A silk blouse with a
leather jacket. Something classic over something sheer
and casual. A pencil skirt of light wool or linen with
a lingerie-style camisole top. Laser cut suede with
sheer cotton. The look is layered, with competing
weights and textures, generally with the heaviest on the
outside, lighter fabrics inside.
The
Belt is Back
Belts showed up in many outfits,
both as a way to complete the ensemble and to bring in a
burst of color. They
varied from thin to massive (8 inches wide, draped around
waist and hips.) In all of its incarnations,
however, the belt was made more of an integral piece of
the overall outfit, instead of an afterthought.
So
where is style going?
Unlike past decades when one
unifying style emerged and set the tone, however, the
diversity of styles only emphasized the lack of a cohesive
design voice in the world today. Some
skirts were long, some nearly non-existent. Blouses
were full, or body-molding. Men's looks were tailored
or juvenile. The look was chic or vampish.
What
you have to keep in mind is that each designer today has
a theme or an over-arching influence for each collection
he or she produces. For one it might
be the glamour-look of the 1920s. Another went to
Palm Beach and was swayed by the palms and light sea breezes.
Yet another has a signature item that must be worked into
every collection -- such as the Chanel jacket, which reappeared
in a soft fabric with flowing movement, instead of the well-tailored
classic we expect. Because of these different influences,
it's probably more amusing than definitive to watch the
models wearing new styles strut the stage.
What is clear is that style
is continuing to evolve, and our every-day garments will
have touches of many designers (often rolled into one single
piece of clothing). So how do you handle this
barrage of new influences? By
defining your own personal style, and then picking and choosing
from among the new crop of garments each year to supplement
and enhance it. Do that, and you'll
always be in style.
A
word about Care.
One thing that designers never
seem to give a second thought to is how their creations
will actually weather the day-to-day grind of wear and cleaning.
They choose fabrics that practical people would never consider.
They affix details and decorations that are not capable
of withstanding the real world. However, for garments
made or imported into the US, there must be a care label
in each one that lists at least one acceptable method of
cleaning that garment. Labels that say things like "dryclean
only -- exclusive of trim" are not within the guidelines.
(After all, who's going to remove all the trim from a garment,
clean it, and then reaffix it all? Every time?)
So as you hit the stores
and start evaluating how the new Spring and Summer fashions
will blend with your established wardrobe and freshen it
up, remember the rules:
- The most important tag is
NOT the designer label or the price tag. It's
the Care Label.
- Recognize that buying a
garment is like establishing a contract between you and
the garment manufacturer. You
must be willing to do your part and clean
the garment appropriately in order for the contract to
work.
- Learn
the names of manufacturers and designers who never seem
to let you down, and gravitate to their garments.
Not only will you probably find good, serviceable garments
that will have a long and happy life in your closet, but
you'll be supporting and reinforcing those people who
really have your wardrobe's best at heart.
Happy
Spring and Summer Shopping! |
