|
|
|
It's
been said that hemlines rise and fall faster
than the stockmarket. If we took this
analogy to its extreme, all the women would
be wearing floor-dusters these days... but that's
another discussion for another day.
If you think hemlines
are just a sign of herd instinct, you'd be wrong.
In reality, the history of hemlines reads like
a history of our country, its attitude toward
women, and their attitude toward life, particularly
since the turn of the 20th Century. Today
we're looking at hemlines and reading what they
say about our culture. No hemming and
hawing about it (sorry!) you'll never look at
clothes quite the same after reading the newsletter.
Regardless what length
you wear your hems, or your slacks, or your
coats, we're ready to give them the care they
deserve -- whether they're new, classics or
vintage. Our care is always state of the
art.
See you soon!
Jim
Nixon,
The
Cleaners |
|
|
An
Up and Down Tale
Up until
the first World War, hemlines were uniformly
long -- generally brushing the floor.
This meant that garments took a lot of care,
particularly the hems, which dragged through
whatever came their way. Prior to the
war, hemlines rose to a more practical ankle
length -- but with the advent of war they continued
their ascent to mid-calf. They've stayed
there or higher ever since.
But what does the length
of a hem say about our culture? Read on
and find out!
|
|
|
|
|
That
70's Coupon!
It's
a 70s Rollback! Right now, the 70s are
in, so we're giving you the chance to really
feel like you're there. We'll
clean a pair of slacks (pants) for only $3.99!
Ah, nostalgia!
Be
sure to include a copy of this coupon with your
order. Offer expires September 28, 2002
and cannot be combined with other offers.
To
print just the coupon, highlight the text, click
on File in the upper left of your screen, then
Print. Check the box next to Selection
in the print box, and click |
|
|
Relaxing
the Rules -- the 1920s
The first World War
had a profound impact on the attitudes of people.
They questioned the old patterns of living and
values that had brought them into such a horrendous
war and rejected much of what had gone before.
That included clothing rules, which were unchanged
since Victorian days. Suddenly, not only
were women showing ankles and even calves, they
were wearing high heels and revealing stockings.
Corsets were out, and brassieres were in, mostly
because the culture focused on youth -- and
bras could flatten a chest and make a woman
appear slimmer and younger.
With moving pictures,
Hollywood stars were all the rage -- as was
makeup, and the new "permanent wave".
In fact, this is when beauty parlors were born,
where women could gather and chat while having
their hair done (something previously done at
home, or not at all.) Women even began
using nail polish. Shocking! |
|
|
Judgement
Days -- the 1930s
After the excesses
of the 1920s, the stock market crash and Depression
came as a slap in the face to our culture.
Many felt it was a judgement against them for
their lax behavior, and clothing turned to more
conservative styles along with the attitudes
of its wearers.
Styles became more
feminine, too. Women were allowed to be
women, in short. Ruffles reappeared, gowns
cut on the bias with dramatic lines were introduced.
Hats became more feminine than the clingy "cloche"
cap, which had been adopted when less hair meant
no place for a hat pin. |
|
|
War
on Fashion -- the 1940s
Just a generation after
the War to End All Wars, an even greater conflict
engulfed the world. This war, however,
would change the world forever in profound ways.
Fashion was part of what changed, as shortages
caused people to be increasingly creative.
Gone were bias-cut
gowns that required a great deal of material.
Women bought patterns that were meant to be
used to remake a man's suit into one for a woman,
cutting the skirt from trouser legs, and rebuilding
the jacket. Shoulder pads and tailored
looks quickly became the new fashion statement.
The popular "little
black dress" was invented in the 1940s, as a
way to stretch a wardrobe by using accessories
to vary the knee-length simple dress.
Women also began wearing slacks for the first
time, both for war work and in general activities. |
|
|
The
Glory Days -- the 1950s
Just as after the first
World War, the decade after W.W. II brought
a feeling of well-being and joy. Women
wanted to be treated as women again, not as
war workers -- but they also didn't want to
lose the independence they'd gained in the war
years. Cinched-in waists and full shoulders
made for hour-glass figures that caught many
an eye. Hemlines hovered near the knee,
and high heels were a must, whether worn with
swishing full skirts or pencil straight ones.
Of course, there were
also the Bobby-soxers we all like to dress up
as for parties, with their poodle skirts, Peter
Pan collar blouses, saddle shoes and ponytails.
And don't forget the cat-eye glasses!
But the overall image is one of women breaking
out of their old roles and testing their wings. |
|
|
A
Groovy Time -- the 1960s
With the 60s came color,
motion, sound, freedom. Some may argue
there was too much freedom, but the smell of
it was everywhere. Once again, the culture
worshipped youth -- the babydoll look was in
with empire-waist dresses that de-emphasized
a woman's curves and made her more youthful
looking. It was a time to think like,
behave like and enjoy being a child again.
It was also a time
of experimentation in every aspect of society
-- and hemlines were no exeption.
Suddenly, the knee was not only showing, it
was nowhere near the hemline! The mini
came in, and the go-go boot was not far behind.
The style said, "I'm a woman, and I'm confident
about it -- no matter what you think."
Tights were also a must, particularly with the
mini and the micro -- or a woman could find
herself practically nude.
Space was also a consuming
passion for the country, and of course fashion
couldn't wait to go along for the ride.
Pierre Cardin created the lovely outfit in the
center of our illustration, complete with cut-away
helmet so the wearer would be ready for a spacewalk
at a moment's notice. It looks ridiculous
now, but everyone thought we'd be living on
Mars by 2001 anyway.
There was even a flirtation
with paper clothes... but we'll tackle that
topic another time. Just leave your matches
home. |
|
|
Grannies,
Polyester, Power Dressing -- the 1970s, '80s
and Beyond
After the breezy minis
of the 1960s, women were entitled to go the
other way and love their granny dresses for
a short time. Ah, the relief of being
able to pick up something one dropped!
The '70s also brought us polyester -- something
we'd all rather forget.
The decade was one
of transition as women tried to find their place
in society and make their statement in how they
presented themselves. Fashions were long
and short, pants and dresses, and everything
in between.
When the dust settled,
women took their place in the House. And
the Senate. And the Board room.
The 1980s will forever be known as the greedy
decade. People were hungry for more --
more money, more power, more success.
Women put on their power suits with huge shoulder
pads, pushed up sleeves and tailored skirts,
and moved out. They softened the power
suit look with feminine blouses and scarves,
and colored hose with matching shoes were a
necessity.
Despite the adherence
to designer fashions in the 80s, a breath of
democracy was in the wind. When designers
tried to drop shoulder pads, women rebelled.
Clothes began to come with removable shoulder
pads, so the wearer -- not the designer -- decided
what looked best on her. Clothing designed
for real life became part of every wardrobe
-- exercise clothing.
The 1990s were an extension
of the 80s in the sense that clothing became
something driven not by designer collections
and decisions, but by what the public would
put up with. It was a decade
when, for the first time, people began
dressing as they liked
to dress, not just how they were supposed
to dress. There is no "look" that can
be attributed to our "in" society members anymore.
Everyone wears whatever he or she finds comfortable,
functional and proper. We've come a long
way from 1900 -- thank goodness!
READ
MORE ABOUT IT
|
|
|
|
